According to my guidebook, the Vatican is a taboo subject in friendly conversation with Romans. However, it is a presence that is completely inescapable and unavoidable. Within a mile of St. Peter’s Basilica, you see the denizens of Vatican City. Rome is one of the few places in the world where you can see a nun waiting in line with a businessman for a slice of pizza.

St. Peter's Square (May 2009)
The first time I visited St. Peter’s Square was in the morning, around 7:30am. This is a truly magical time to see the Vatican; the square is entirely illuminated by sunlight, but the coolness of night still lingers. By mid-day, the place is blazing hot, and even the rushing fountains aren't enough to cool down the intrepid traveler. In the morning, the sun is not yet high enough to blind you as you gaze up toward each of the sculptures dotting the top of the square. There are few tourists milling about at this hour, and thus few pigeons. The entire scene is calm and peaceful, with priests, nuns and scholars lounging on the steps before they start their day, and businessmen munching on flaky croissants
vvvClergy at the Vatican (June 2009)vvv
Unfortunately, even at eight in the morning, the hawkers are out and about. Whether it be wares or services, there’s always something to be sold. Borgo Pio is a small area composed of tourist shops and cafes. It’s one of my favorites, because often one can partake of a

n espresso and a cornetto, and watch the passing clergymen as they shop. In America, I don’t believe I’ve seen a priest in full garb outside of a Church or a movie. It’s quite novel to see priests and nuns roaming about with shopping bags, as if observing some magical creature in its natural habitat.
Even though it’s never mentioned in polite conversation, the Vatican is Rome and Rome is the Vatican. The combination is as unavoidable as prosciutto e melone.
^^^Shopping Priest near Vatican (June 2009)^^^

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